Zigzag and buttonhole sewing machine



July 10, 1962 o. WANK ETAL 3,043,253

zIGzAGANnBUTTONHOLESEWINGMACHINE Filed May 22, 1957 l2 Sheets-Sheet 1 fm/enters M /W MWA.,

July 10, 1962 o. wANK- ETAL zIGzAG AND BUTToNHoLE SEWING MACHINE 12 Sheets-Shree?I 2 Filed May 22, 1957 S mv SMV ma N [menta/"5 July-10, 1962 o. WANK ETAL 3,043,253

ZIGZAG AND BUTTONHOLE SEWING MACHINE Filed May 22, 1957 12 Sheets-Sheet 3 .gl-lullin fm/enfans elba/M MQW@ www July 1o, 1962 0. WANK ETAL 3,043,253

ZIGZAG AND BUTTONHOLE SEWING MACHINE Filed May 22, 1957 12 Sheet's--SheefI 4 Hg 5 fw) .Im/@Hmm July 1o, 1962 3,043,253

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ZIGZAG AND BUTTONHOLE SEWING MACHINE Filed May 22, 1957 12 Sheets-Sheet 5 fm/enfans @zag/M and July 1o, 19462 o. WANK ETAL 3,043,253

ZIGZAG AND BUTTONHOLE SEWING MACHINE Filed May 22, 1957 l2 Sheets-Sheec 6 July 10, 1962 o. WANK ETAL 3,043,253

ZIGZAG AND BUTTONHOLE SEWING MACHINE Filed May 22, 1957 12 Sheets-Sheet 7 July 10, 1962 o. WANK ETAL 3,043,253

ZIGZAG AND BUTTONI-IOLE SEWING MACHINE W N J j July 10, 1962 o. WANK ETAL zmzAG AND BUTToNHoLE SEWING MACHINE l2 Sheets-Sheet 9 Filed May 22, 1957 Fig.26

Jnventors July 1o, 1962 o. WANK Em. Y 3,043,253

ZIGZAG AND BUTTONHOLE SEWING MACHINE Filed May 22, 1957 12 Sheets-Sheet 10 .7n ven tors mau/MJ? /WQA @im July 410, '1962 QVWANK ETAL 3,043,253

ZIGZAG AND BUTTONHOLE SEWING MACHINE Filed May 22, 1957 l2, Sheets-Sheet 11 Jnven tors July 10, 1962 o. WANK ETAL 3,043,253

' ZIGZAG AND BUTTONHOLE SEWING MACHINE Filed May 22, 1957 12 Sheets-Sheet 12 Figzy 231' Jnvemvors nited States 3,043,253 ZIGZAG ANI) BUTTNHOLE SEWING MACFDIE tto Wank and Heinrich rIlieenhausen, Bielefeld, Germany, assignors, by mesne assignments, to Anker- Phoenix Nahmaschinen A.G., Bielefeld, Germany, a corporation of Germany Filed May 22, 1957, Ser. No. 650,878 Claims priority, application Germany .lune 18, 1956 16 Claims. (Cl. i12- 158) Our invention relates to a zigzag sewing machine with devices for controlling, manually as well as automatically, the stitching width, the stitching area, and the stitching length.

It particularly relates to a machine which is capable of doing many types of sewing. It can produce sewed patterns in great variety, including the automatic sewing of buttonholes. Due to the fact that the stitching length is controlled automatically, tu-rning the material being sewed is unnecessary because the material is automatically fed forward as well as in the reverse direction. This is a particularly Vfavorable feature when making buttonholes.

Our invention has for its object to further improve the above-mentioned control devices, particularly the device for the automatic control of the stitching length.

Another object is to provide a setting means for adjusting the stitching length, which means also serves simultaneously for coupling or uncoupling the linkage employed for the automatic cont-rol of fthe stitching length to or from the manually operable handle used to govern stitching length.

According to another feature of the invention, a setting means which is manually adjustable into several respeotive positions, and serves for controlling the stitching width, the stitching area and the stitching length, operates to cause, when in its iirst posi-tion, the sewing of the iirst caterpillar of a buttonhole, when in its second position, the sewing of the rst cross bar, when in its third position, 'the sewing of `the second caterpillar, in its fourth position, the sewing of the second cross bar, and when in its iifth position the setting means causes the sewing-over of the buttonhole.

The above-mentioned and other specific objects and features of the invention will be apparent from, and will be described in, the following description of the preferred between manual and automatic control of stitching width;

FIG. 5 is a cross section along the line G--H in FIG. 2, illustrating the manual lever for control of stitching area;

FIG. 6 is a horizontal view partly in section of the drive for the side-stitch control fork and the one-way coupling star drive for the cams;

FIG. 7 is a view of the mechanisms of FIG. 6 from the opposite side;

FIG. 8 shows a section along the line C-I) of FIG. 2,

illustrating the manual stitching member control lever;

FIG. 9 -is a section along the line E--F of FIG. 2, of the three cams conferring automatic operation;

FIG. 10 is va section along the line I-K of FIG. 13, illustrating details of the stitching length control handle; FIGS. 1l and l2 illustrate two details of FIG. l0;

FIGS. 13 and 14 show a portion of the device for controlling the feed of the material, to control stitching length;

FIGS. 15, 16, 17 illustrate a portion of the device for producing -a buttonhole;

FIG. 18 shows the cover plate in a side view;

FIG. 19 illustrates the cover plate in cross section;

FIGS. 20 and 2.1 illustrate the illuminating device;

FIGS. 22 and 23 show respective embroidery patterns;

FIG. 24 is a top View of 4the stitch-control fork;

FIG. 25 is a front v-iew of the feed-control fork;

FIG. 26 is a side view of the material pusher;

FIG. 27 is a front view of the automatic control means for the material feed;

FIG. 28 is a top view showing the coopera-tion of the control cam for the feed with the feeler lever;

FIG. 29' is a side view of the components accommodated within the head portion of the sewing machine;

FIG. 30 shows -a detail in top view of the. manual stitch-ing length `control handle;

Y FIG. 31 -is a detail of a pin that limits the adjusting travel of the handle of FIG. 30;

FIG. 32 is a detail, in top view, of the same pin;

FIG. 33 is a detail, in top view, of a flanged guiding sleeve for the slider of FIG. 32;

FIG. 34 is a detail in section of the guiding sleeve.

The illustrated machine is suitable for straight sewing as Well as for decorative stitching such as applique, darning or embroidery work. The basic mechanisms for producing straight and zigzag stitches, feeding the material, and forming loop stitches are related to known sewing machines. The controls for varying the width and location of the zigzag stitches are related to those disclosed in German Patent 904,02() of 1954.

For amore detailed description of the basic mechanisms connected -to the needle bar reference may be made to our copending U.S. application Serial N0. 515,- 160, led June 13, 1955, now Patent No. 2,966,868, granted January 3, 1961.

For clarication, at this point We define stitching width, motif frequency, stitching length, and stitching density as follows: 1 v

(a) The stitching width is the distance Vbetween the needle entrance points alternately located to the right and to the left of the middle line of the sewing pattern. This lateral displacement is produced by the lateral swinging motion of the needle bar.

' (b) The stitching length is the ldistance between the individual successive entrances of the needle into the material, projected onto the zero line.

(c) The motif frequency is the number of. the needle entrances into the material per unit of length of the motif of a sewing pattern.

(d) The stitching density is equal to the stitching length.

The sewing machine mechanism is housed in casing 52 under Ia tiltable cover I199. Motor driven horizontal shaft 49 turns bevel gears 48 and 47, causing the oscillartion of a side stitch control fork (FIG. 1). Fork 45 is connected to rod 232 which carries a swing frame 223 having a bore 222 in which the needle bar 221 reciprocates (FIG. 24). The needle holder 220 is received by the needle bar 221 (FIGS. 24, 29) which, as stated, is axially displaceable in the bore 222 of the swing frame 223. The swing frame y223 is rotatably joined with the material presser rod 224. The presser rod 224 is axially displaceable in bearing bushings 227, 228 which Iare mounted on housing 52 by means of screws 225 and 226.

At the presser-rod end facing the material pusher 167, the rod carries fthe presser foot 229 which is Vsecured in its adjusted position by means of a set screw 230. A connecting rod 232 engages abore 231 of the `swing frame 223. The connecting rod 232 is fastened in the bore 233 of the stitch-control fork 45 -by means of a screw In addition to vertical reciprocation, the needle bar 221 is also capable ofthe lateral swinging movements required for zigzag operation. These lateral movements occurabout the axis ofthe presser-foot rod in a horizontal direction substantially parallel to the plane of ilis explained in the copending yapplication Serial No. 665,- 555, tiled June :13, 1957.

The zigzag stitching width corresponds to the amplitude of oscillations transmitted by rod 232 to the swing frame. The stitching location'or area can be varied by shifting the center or zero point of these oscillations.

Dun'ng lmachine operation, a continuously rotating cam 46 (FIGS. 1 and 3) acts upon the glide faces of stitch control fork 45 to which rod 232 is connected. The fork Y has' a xed pivot pin 44 (FIG. 6) on which a slide block 43 (FIG. '1) is revolvable. The block 43 slides in the slideway of guide block 42 the angular position of which f lustration of FIG. 1, and they are accompanied by a corresponding swinging movement of the presser foot. This is determinable manually Vor automatically, as described below.` Member 42 is displaceable angularly about its yaxis and also linearly. By setting the block 42, yand consequently its slideway, at a neutral'angle, no swinging motion is transmitted to the needle bar and the lateral stitching width is zero. By'setting or turning the block 42, Vthe oscillations of fork 45 Vare caused to impart a Vlateral component of motion to the swing lever, so that the -needle'bar will oscillate about the axis ofthe presserfoot rod. Angular adjustment of member 42 is effected Veither manually by settinga width control knob 1 or automatically by a cam operated linkage, Vas described below. Stitching-area control is obtained by manual or automatic positioning of the pin 41 (FIG. l) on which guide block 42 is mounted.

The setting knob 1 (FIG. 3), for controlling andV regulating stitching width, is provided with a pivotY shaft 2 journalled in a .bushing 3. The shaft 2 carries a crank V4 intoV which a ball-head screw 5 is screwed. The screw carries a 'ball 6 which forms a universal joint together with a spherical head 7 of a link 8. The other head 9 (FIG. 4) of linking rod 8 cooperates with a ball 10 of a shouldered pivot pin 11. The pivot pin 11 is riveted into Vthe lever 12 Whose pivot shaft 13 is journalled in the bushing 14. 'Ihe bushing'14 is joined by screws (not shown) with a carrier plate 16. Mounted on bushing 14 and rotatable relative thereto is a sleeve 15 firmly r`connected with a'lever 17. Lever 17 is operated by a pull rod 109 whichin turn fis operated by follower lever 107 which follows cam disk 103. Cam disk 103 automatically controls'stitch width. Riveted into lever 17 is a shouldered pin 18 which has an upwardly opening slot 19 (FIG. 2) receiving a pawl 20 (see also FIG. l) which is Vrotatably pivoted at 21. The Vlevers 12 and 17 have respective openings 22 and 23 which can cooperate with the pawl as will be more fully described below.V The ,pawl is controlled by a lever 24 for coupling the stitching-width control means. The arm v25 of lever 2'4 can act upon the extension 26, or upon the slanting front portion of the pawl 20; see FIG. 4. The lever 24 couples- The slider 33 is displaceably mounted on the carrier plate 16 and has two forks 34, 35 cooperating each with a slide block 34a, 35a. The slide blocks 34a, 35a are carried by respective screws 36a, 37a and are fastened by` nuts 36' and 37 respectively. The fork of a fork lever 39 cooperates with aY pine 40 mounted on the slider 31. The fork lever 39 is firmly connected with the bearing pin 41 (FIG. l) which pin is journalled on the slider 33.A The slide block 43 is journalled on Vthe previously mentioned pin 44 (FIG. 24) whichis firmly connected with the side-stitch control fork 45 (FIG. 24), still to be described. The block 43 slides in a slot in the turnable guide or slideway 42 (FIG. 1). The guide block 42 is firmly mounted on bearing pin 41. The fork portion of the side-stitch control fork 45 straddles the eccentric cam 46 joinedwith the bevel gear 47 (FIGS. l, 3) whichmeshes with the other bevel gear 48. The bevel gear 48 is fastened to the previously mentioned horizontal drive shaft 49 that eX- tends through the horizontal arm structure of the sewing machine. The bevel gear 47 is rotatably mounted on the pin 50 of a bearing block 51 firmly connected with the machine housing 52.

The slider 33 is provided with a sleeve 53 (FIG. l) which cooperates with a fork 54 (FIG. 2) of an angular lever 55. The lever 55 carries an arm 56 which forms the manually operable handle for controlling the stitching area. The angular lever 55 is rmly connected with a sleeve 57 (FIG. 5) which is revolvably mounted on another sleeve 58. The sleeve 5S is iivrmly joined with the carrier plate 16. The slider r59 is displaceably mounted on the arm 56 and carries anose 60 which can cooperate with the opening 61 of an arresting plate 62. The arresting plate is fastened by screws on a stop plate 63. The stop plate 63 is fastened -by `means of two screws 64 on the carrier plate 16. The slider 59 is provided with a coupling pin 65 which can cooperate with an opening 66"of a lever 67. Y Lever 67 is -rmly joined with a shaft 68 rotatablyl journalled in the sleeve 58. By displacing the slider 59, either the nose can be placed in connection with the arresting plate 62, or the pin can be coupled with the lever 67.

rFirmly connected with the Vbevel gear 47 is another eccentric cam 69 (FIG. 6) cooperating with an .arm 70 of a fork lever 71. yThe varm 70V of lever 71`is biased toward the cam by a helical spring 72 (see also FIGS..7 and 8). The lever 71 carries the sleeve 73 rotatably mountedon a pin 74. Pin 74 is riveted into an ar-in 75 (FIG. 2) which carries a pivot'pin 76 mounted on the carrier plate 16. A handle 77 is secured for pivotal motion on pin 76 by means of nuts 78. The handle 77 is madeV of resilient material and has a nose 79 (FIGS. 2, 8) entering into a guide slot 80 of a slide fbridge 81 (FIGS. 2, 8).- The bridge 81 is secured on the can-ier plate 16 by means of screws 82. The handle 77 serves for controlling the motif frequency and also, when in its left outermost position according to the dotted outline in FIG. 2, for lifting the arm 70 of the fork lever 71 away from the eccentric cam 69 (see also FIG. 6). The lifting of the arm 70 is brought about by the fact that a lateral lug 83 (FIG. 7) of an angle pieceV 84'is placed in contact with .thel fork lever 71. The angle piece 84 is connected by a screw :85 with thepinV 76 andhas an elongated slot 86. A screw 87 cooperates Iwith the elongated slot'86 and is connected to the arm 75. The screw and slot junction 86, 87 serves for the compensation of manufacturing tolerances. This 4permitsthe'placement of the lug 83 accurately into touch with the fork lever 7l. The fork of lever 71 (FIGS. 6 to 9) straddles a'roller 88 journalled on a pin 89 which is'riveted into a plate 90. The plate 90 is fastened by screws to a coupling star 91 rotatably mounted on the pin 92 of a couplingportion 93. The coupling star 91 is secured by means of a screw 94 screwed into the coupling portion 93. The connection between the coupling portion 93 and the coupling star 91 is elfected through rollers 95 so as to form a roller ,5 coupling of a type well known as such. The coupling portion 93 is journalled for rotation in a sleeve 97 (FIG. 9). The journal pin 96 of the coupling portion turns in the sleeve. The sleeve 97 has a shoulder 98 fastened ^by screws to the carrier plate '16. The shoulder or ange member 98 is similar to the coupling star 91, being also designed as a coupling star, and its rollers 99 cooperate with the coupling portion 93 in the same manner as the coupling just described. The parts 93, 98 and 99 operate as an over-run clutch which prevents a reverse rotation of the coupling portion 93. Mounted on another pin 100 of the coupling portion 93 is a spacer ring 101 which also carries an entrainer key 102 (FIG. 9) for entraining three cam disks 103, 104, 105 (FIGS. 1, 2, 9).

The middle cam disk 103 cooperates with the nose 106 of a feeler or cam follower lever 107 (FIGS. l and 3) for the control of the stitching width. The follower lever is connected With a bushing 108 (FIG. 3) and is linked to a pull rod 109 (FIG. l) -at 110. The other end of pull rod 109 is connected at 111 to the lever 17 (FIG. 4). The pull rod 109 is acted upon by a spring 112 (FIG. l) which is connected to a pin 113 riveted into plate 16.A Lever 17 mounts pawl 20 which turns lever 12 and pin 13. Pin 13 moves lever 28 and slider 31. Fork 39 is thereby caused to turn pin 41, which turns guide block 42.

The top cam disk 104 cooperates with the nose 114 (FIG. l) of a feeler or cam 'follower lever 115 (FIGS. 2 and 3) for stitching-area control. The feeler lever 115 is connected to the shaft 122. Joined with the feeler lever 115 `at 117 is a linking rod 116 (FIGS. 2 and 3) Whose other end is linked at 118 (FIG. 5) to the lever 67. A spring 119 acts upon the linking rod 116. Spring 119 is connected at 120 (FIG. l) with the pin 121 (FIG. 2) riveted into the plate 16.

Manual control of material feed, and therefore of stitching length, is obtained by turning shaft 157 (FIG. l) by means of handle 156. Shaft 157 and handle 156 also turn during automatic feed `and stitching length control.

The lowermost cam disk 105 (FIG. 27) acts upon the nose of a feeler lever 124 (FIGS. 2 and 3) for automatic control of the stitching length. Feeler lever 124 is connected to -a sleeve 125 (FIG. 3) `and is provided with a lug 126 which is acted upon by `a set screw 129 (FIGS. 3 and 28) in threaded engagement with and mounted on a lateral lug 127 of the lever 128. The lever 128 is connected with a sleeve 130. As apparent from FIG. 3, the shaft 122 is received in the sleeves 108 and 130, the sleeves 108 and 130 being journalled in a bushing 131 stationarily carried by plate 16. The sleeve 125 of lever 124 is journalled on a projection 132 of the bushing 131. A locking disk 133 connected with va shaft 122 fastens the described bearing components together.

The lever 128 has a bent .portion 134 (FIGS. 1, 3 and 28) provided with a pivot pin 135. Pin 135 is joined with a linking means 136 which comprises a Wire structure that forms an eye about the pivot pin. 'I'he other end of linking rod or wire 136 is linked to a pivot pin 137 (FIG. l) riveted into -an angular lever 138. The angular lever 138 is rotatably mounted on a pin 139 (FIGS. l, 3 and 27) riveted into an vangle piece 140. Angle piece 140 is fastened (FIG. 3) by means of screws to the above-described bearing block 51. An extension 141 of the angular lever 138 is joined at 142 (FIGS. 1 and 27) with a link 143 whose other end is linked at 144 to an arm 145. The arm 145 is biased by means of a spring 145a connected to angle piece 140. A bushing 146 carried by arm 145 (FIG. 10) is journalled on a ilanged sleeve 147 stationarily mounted in the housing 52. The shape of member 147 is shown in FIGS. 33, 34. The arm 145 carries a pin 148 which has a slit 149 (FIG. l) for the accommodation of a pawl 150 (FIG. l0). The pawl 150 is rotatably mounted on pin 148 at 151 and carries an extension 152 acted upon by a pressure or compression spring 153 which is braced against the arm 145. Another extension 154 of pawl 150 can cooperate with a slot or groove 155 of `a handle 156. The

' handle 156, made of plastic material, is injection-molded together with a shaft 157 which serves for controlling the feed of the material being sewed. The shaft 157 of handle 156 is journalled in the sleeve 147. Clamping crank 158 (FIGS. l and 25) is connected to Ithe feed controling slideway 160 through a link 159. The con` troller slideway 160, which is rotatably mounted on the housing by means of a pivot pin 160a (FIG. 25), cooperates with a slider 161 which slides therein and is rotatably mounted on the feed control fork 162 (FIG. 1). The feed control fork 162 is pivotally connected With a swing lever or crank 163 fastened by clamping upon a shaft 164 (FIG. 26). Located above the shaft 164 is the known feed crank 165 which acts upon the material-feeding pusher 167 through a pusher carrier 166.

The feeder fork 162 is actuated -by an eccentric cam 168 mounted on the arm shaft-49 of the machine. t

As mentioned, the extension 154 (FIG. 10) of paw can cooperate, at the proper time, with a nut or groove or slot of the handle 156 when the vmaterial pusher 167 is to be controlled automatically. The control of the pawl 150 and hence of its projection 154 is effected by an opening 169 (FIGS. l0, 13, 14 and 30 to 34) in the disk 170 of an adjusting member 171. This member serves to determine the swinging amplitude of the adjusting means 156 for controlling the feed yand for coupling the automatic control of the feed. When setting the adjusting member 171 clockwise from the position automatic to the position manua1, the extension 154 of pawl 150 is moved counter-clockwise about its pivot 151 by means of the incline 172 and is thus moved out of the nut or slot or groove 155 of the manual control member 156. As soon as the incline 172 rims upon the pawl, the automatic control of the material pusher 4.by cam disk 105 and the feeler lever 124 is eliminated because the motion of lever 124 can be communicated to linkage 175, 158, 159, only when pawl extension 154 is not moved out of the slot 155 of handle 156.

'I'he disk 170 is adjustably connected to and mounted on a sleeve 173 which is journalled on the sleeve 147 (FIG. l0). Sleeve 173 is provided with three notches 174. The notches 174 act' upon a spring 175 in such a manner that in the manua position of disk 170, or rather of the control means 171 (see particularly FIG. 14), the spring 175 occupies the position shown in FIG. l2. The spring 175 is then active, that is, exerting pres,- sure against the handle 156, and thus imposing a braking action upon the handle 156. This braking action is necessary in order to make the manual setting self-braking, whereas in the position of the spring shown in FIG. 1l, this self-braking is eliminated. Consequently, when the material pusher is automatically controlled, the manual member 156 which also participates in the automatic working movement, is subjected to smallest possible friction. The setting disk 170 is further provided with an opening 176 having a concentric cam surface and an ascending cam surface portion. The cam opening 176 acts upon a pin 177 secured to a slider 178. The slider 178 is guided in a slot 179 (FIGS. 14 and 33) of the frange of stationary sleeve 14'7. The Vfront end of the pin 177 enters into the opening or groove 180 in the handle 156. Groove 180 tapers, being widest near the center, and has on both sides respective stops 180:1. As a result, the pin 177 operates to limit the adjusting travel of the handle 156. When handle 171 is turned so as to cause cam opening 176 to push the pin 177 to its outermost radial position, the indicating pointer 181 registers with the ciper 0 of the scale 182. In this position the handle 156 is arrested. However, when the pin 177 is pushed into its'innermost radial position, then the handle 156 can swing or be swung over the total range of the 'cam disks 192,193, 19dl (FiGS. 15, 16).

indicating scale. The pin is in the concentric part of the Vcam opening 176 when the handle 171 is turned to automatic operation, as Vshown in FIG. 13. j

To change the sewing technique or performance, the control of the stitching width, the stitching area, and the feed is altered. To do this the cam disks 103 to 105 are replaced by cam disks of different shapes. It is rst necessary to place the feeler levers 107, 115 and 124 in Y inactive position, in which their respective noses 106, 114

and 123 are no longer located within the range of the cam disks. The feeler levers 107, 115 and 124 are provided with extensions 183, 184 and 185 (FG. 2) respectively which are acted upon by a releasing lever 187 which is provided with a handle 186 (FIGS. 1, 2, 3), the. action being such that the cam 188 of the releasing lever 187 acts upon the extension 185 of the feeler lever 124 for the feed control, whereas the cam portion 189 connected with the releasing lever 187 acts upon the projection 183 of the feelerlever 107 for the stitching width; and the cam-portion 190 likewise connected with the releasing lever 187 acts upon the projection 184 of the feeler lever 115 for controlling the stitching area. The cam elements 189, 190 are adjustably connected with the releasing leverV 187 to compensate for .manufacturing tolerances. The releasing lever 187 is connected with a shaft 191 (FIG. 3) journalled in the abovementioned carrier plate 116.

As mentioned above, certain sewing patterns require i A exchanging the cam disks. -As an instance, `in order to produce a buttonhole on linen or lingerie, a special set of camdisks is provided, comprising the threeV individual Middle cam disk 192 serves to control the stitching. width, vvtop cam disk 193 controls the stitching area, and cam disk 194 controls the 'feed of the material. The three cam disks are rigidly connected with a knob 195 (FEGS.v l5, 16, 17) which may be made of plastic material. The assembled unit'forms a rotary switch. vThe knob 195, and alsothe cam disks 192, 193, 194, have a bore 196 in the longin tudinal wall of which is agroove 197. The groove 197 Y 4each ofthe symbols 1 Vto 5 will indicate the progress of Vthe work in proper sequence.

In order to make certain that theV person sewing can alwayscom'mence'with the symbol 1,"a mark 198 (FIG. 17) is provided which is located on the carrier plate V16. To permit the accurate setting of the adjusting knob 195 inthe particular or required setting, the feed control cam Vdisk 194 (FIG. ,728)

is designed in such a manner that the associatedfeeler'. lever 124, aside from its operation as' a feed control means, is also effective as an arresting lever. VThe'disk 194 is provided with iive peripheral indentations for this purposel Y Y Y When producing buttonholes, the handle 77 remains The described devices for performing the individual sewing operations are so arranged that they are readily and conveniently accessible. For-this purpose, the housing 52, particularly the arm portion of the housing, is provided with a cap 199 (FIGS. 1, 18, 19) which can be turned about hinges 200, 201. The design of hinge 201 is such that lthe cover is biased by a spring 202 in the closed as well as in the open position, the spring acting in the Vcl'ot-md-clash position, because the knob 195, `and thus also the control cams 192, 193, and 194, are turned manually from position 1 tovposition 5.

The significance of position 5 of knob 195 is as follows: For sewing over the buttonhole in this position, the

' stitching-width control is setto zeroriby means of the control'cam 192;,the stitching area is set to the position right by means'of the control cam 193; and the material feed in the sewing direction is set to a very small Y value by means ofthe control cam 194. As soon as a few forward stitches are sewed, thev thread is cut ot. This makes certain that'thers'eam cannot be easily pulled open.

to definitely hold the Ycover in each of these respective positions. In the closed position of the cover the spring 282 acts on the top cam disk 104 in such a manner that a pressure piece 203 (FIGS. 1, 19) consisting of soft material is pressed against the cam disk 104 and thereby prevents an'inadvertent lifting of the cam disks 103 to 105. The cover .199 extends over the entire arm structure of the machine up to but not including the sewing head.

Disposed in the sewing headis illuminating device 204 (FIGS. 1, 2, 20, 21) which is pivoted at 206 (FIG. 2l) on the front plate 205 to permit swinging as shown in FIG. 20.

As is apparent from FIGS. 2 and 3, the yarn spools 207 (FIGS. 2, 3) are disposed on the rear portion of the housing 52. The thread 208 (FIG. 2) is guided along the rear portion of the housing to an Yeye 209 connected with the hinge 200. Guide pins 210 (see also FIG. l) which simultaneously connect a cover plate 211 with the front plate 205, guide the thread to a pre-tensioning part 212. The tensioning part 212 as well as the part 213 form part of the cover plate 211 which therefore is additionally joined to the housing 52. The thread 208 further passes through the thread tensioner to the guide roller 215 provided with a return spring 216, thence through'the threadguiding stirrup 217 to the thread lever 218, from there to the thread eye 219 (FIG. 1) and to the needle holder-'2241 on the needle bar 221. The parts 217 and 219 are like- Wise connected with the front plate 205.-

As just described and particularly shown in FIGS. 1 and 2, the front plate 205 serves to receive, orV carry the illuminating device 284 andVr also to receive the cover plate 211 which not only provides aguide for the thread but also serves for lateral limitation of the cover 199 when in the open position, since the hinge 200 prevents the pulling 011 of open cover 199 toward the left, with reference to the illustration in FIG. l.

The operation of the above-described apparatus is as follows: Y

As previously explained, the setting member 1 serves for manually controlling and regulating the stitching width, whereas the setting member 5 6 serves for manually controlling the stitching area. The automatic control of Y the stitching area and the stitching width, respectively, is accomplished by'means of the cam disks 103 and 104 which act upon the above-described associated devices through the respective follower levers-107, and 115, and thefrespective Vlinks 1709 and 116. f n

The coupling lever 24 when vin one position permits manual control of the stitching width by member 17 and when. in theother position permits' the automatic control of the stitching width by action offits arm 25 (FIGS. 1, 2, *4). upon the pawl 20. As already described, pawl 20 serves to couple the lever 12 (FIG. 4) with the Ylever 17. The embroidery pattern incorporated in the cam shape of cam disk 103 is thus transmitted through the link 109 to the oscillating needle rod 221 and thus upon the material being sewed.

The automatic control'of the stitching area is brought about by sliding the handle 59 upon the arm 56 into the position illustrated in FIG. 5 so that a coupling is effected through pin'65 betweenthe lever y67 and the arm 56. Since the link 116 is pivotally joined with the lever 67 and, as already described, is controlled by the cam disk 104, there now occurs an automatic turning of arm 56. The fork 54 of arm 56 acts upon sleeve 53 to displace the Si slideway member 42, which is fixed on pin 41 journalled upon slider 33, for the purpose of displacing the needle rod in accordance with the adjusted stitching area.

As described, the setting means 156 (FIGS. 3 `and l0) serves for controlling the feed, as far as the drive of the material pusher 167 by hand is concerned.

The automatic control of the feed, however, is effected -by having the cam disk 165 act by means of the feeler lever 124 and through the set screw 129, upon the lever 128, the link 136 upon the angular lever 138, and through the link 143 upon the arm 145. When the manually set means 171 is in the position automa-tic (see particularly FIGS. l() and 13) then the pawl 150 is placed in connection with the handle 156. When the arm 145 is being driven, the manual setting means 156 is likewise driven so that its shaft 157 and the crank arm 158 act through the link 159 to automatically control the feed slideway member 1643. During rotation of the horizontal drive shaft 49, the cam 148 imparts lateral deflections to the feed-control fork .162. Depending upon the position of the slideway member 160, the feed-control fork 162, constrained by its guidance in the block 161, then yields either in its longitudinal direction, or in opposition thereto. The resulting constrainedly controlled stroke movement is transmitted by crank 163 and shaft 164 to the feed control crank 165 which acts through the pusher carrier 166 on the material pusher 167.

As mentioned above, the sewing machine is also suitable for producing buttonholes in shirts, lingerie and other washable goods. For this purpose, the set of three cam disks 103, 194, 105 is exchanged for three other cam disks 192, 193, 194, and the handle 77 for controlling the motif frequency is shifted into its uttermost left-hand position according to FIG. 2 which represents the switching-off position for the cam-disk drive; see the dot-anddash position of handle 77. After inserting the lastmentioned three cam disks and turning the knob 195 counter-clockwise, the sewing operation commences with the symbol l and produces at first the iirst caterpillar of the buttonhole. Thereafter, upon turning into the symbol position 2, the first cross bar is produced. Thereafter, in the symbol position 3, the second caterpillar, then in symbol position 4 the second `cross bar, and ultimately, in the symbol position 5, the -seWing-over of the button hole is carried out.

As already described, the handle 77 acts upon the control of the motif frequency for the motif of an embroidery pattern. A scale (not illustrated) on the cover 199 permits setting the handle 77 upon the desired motif frequency. When turning the handle 77, the pivot point of the fork lever 71 is changed. Such a displacement has the effect of changing the effective leverage ratio of the fork lever 71, which results in a correspondingly different number of stitches. When the cam disk 69 is being driven, the fork lever 71 swings clockwise and, acting through the coupling star 91 and the coupling portion 93, causes a partial rotary movement of the cam disks 103 to 165.

By providing a device according to the invention for controlling the motif frequency, there is afforded the possibility that the motif or design of the embroidery pattern according to FIGS. 22 and 23 can be varied in such a manner that smaller and larger embroidery motifs can be produced with one and the same stitch density but with respectively different motif frequency. The stitching density is controlled, as -is known as such, by the control means 156 for controlling the feed, whereas the handle 77 for controlling the motif frequency acts controllingly upon the rotating speed of the cam disks 103 to 105.

It will be obvious to those skilled in the art, upon a study of this disclosure, that zigzag sewing machine devices according to the invention can be modified with respect to various details and hence may be embodied in apparatus other than the embodiment particularly illustrated and described herein, without departing from the essential features of the invention `and within the Scope of the claims annexed hereto.

We claim:

l. A zigzag sewing machine having a lengthwise reciprocating needle bar and provided with cooperating manual and automatic means to control stitching length, the manual means moving during engagement of and being actuated by the automatic stitching length control means, said manual means to control the stitching length including a manually operated handle reciprocable through a predetermined range of movement in accordance with the desired stitching length, manual adjusting means connected to said handle and arranged so that the relative position of said adjusting means determines said range of movement of said handle, coupling elements operable by said manual adjusting means for coupling and uncoupling said handle to and from said automatic means.

2. A zigzag sewing machine having a lengthwise reciprocating needle bar, comprising a material-feeding l pusher for pushing the material to-be sewed through the machine at a controllable predetermined rate to thus determine the stitching length, drive means including camactuated automatic means for actuating said material-v l feeding pusher, variable linking means connecting said drive means with said pusher, and control means for varying the mutual position and relationship of said linking means to thus control the stitching length, said control means comprising manual stitching length control means cooperating with said automatic means to control the stitching length, said manual means to control the stitching length including a manually operable pivoted handle reciprocable through a predetermined range of movement in accordance with the desired stitching length, a manual adjusting plate pivoted about the same pivot axis as said handle, said adjusting plate being manually positionable to manual and automatic positions, respectively, for selecting automatic and manual control of stitching length, said adjusting plate being provided with a cam surface, limiting means cooperating with said cam surface of said adjusting plate and positionable thereby to limit the swing of said reciprocable handle, and coupling means operable by said plate to couple said handle to said automatic stitching length control means when said adjusting plate is selectively positioned in said automatic position of said plate and operable to uncouple said handle from said automatic means and render the latter inoperative in said manual position of said plate.

3. A sewing machine according to claim 2,y said limiting means comprising radially movable slide means associated with and operablyppositionable by said cam surface offsaid adjusting plate to limit the swing of said reciprocable handle when said plate is selectively positioned in said manual position for manual stitching length control, said handle being provided with a groove and said slide means being provided with a pin engageable insaid groove, said coupling means including a spring-biased pivoted device operable to connect and disconnect said handle to and from said automatic means for controlling the stitching length, said plate being provided with a surface formed so as to Aturn said pivoted device on its pivot -to uncouple said coupling means and thus disconnect said automatic stitching length control means from said handle when said adjusting plate is in said manual position.

4. A sewing machine according to claim 2, said control means including rotatable spring-biased pawl means to operatively connect the handle to said automatic means for controlling the stitching length, said handle being provided withla recess for engaging said pawl means, said plate being provided with a surface positionable to turn said pawl -means against the spring bias direction of said pawl means to disconnect 'said pawl means from said recess when said adjusting plate is turned to manual position, and thus to disconnect said handle from said automatic means for controlling the stitching length.

,5. A zigzag sewing machine havin-ga lengthwise reciprocating needle bar, comprising a material-feeding pusher for pushing the material to be sewed through the machine at a controllable predetermined rate to thus determine the stitching length, drive means including cam- -actuated automatic means for actuating said materialfeeding pusher, variable linking means connecting said drive means with said pusher, and control means for varying the mutual position and relationship of said linking means to thus control the stitching length, said controll means comprising manual stitching length control means K cooperating with said automatic means to control the stitching length, said manual means to control the stitching-length including a manually operable pivoted handle reciprocable through a predetermined range of movementin accordance with the desired stitching length, a

manual adjusting plate mounted coaxially with said hanjdle, said plate being manually positionable for selecting automatic and manualv control of stitching length and having limit means to determine, in the manual setting position of said plate, the range of movement of said handle for manually setting the stitching length desired, a position indicator mounted adjacent to and cooperating with said plate for indicating the relative rotary position thereof, coupling elements positionable by-said adjusting plate to couple said handle to said automatic means for controlling'the stitching length and to simultaneously uncouple the handlel from said adjusting plate, and a spring located between said plate and said handle to impose a frictional braking action upon said handle only when said plate is set for manual operation of stitching length by said handle. Y Y

6. A'zigzag sewing machine having a lengthwise reciprocating needle '-bar, comprising a `material-feeding pusher for pushing the material to be sewed throughV the machine `at a controllable predetermined rate to thus Y determine'the stitching length, drive means including camactuated` automatic means for actuating said material-- feeding pusher, variable Vlinking means connectingsaid drive means with rsaid pusher, and control means forV varying themutual position and relationship of said link- `ing means to thus control the stitching length, individual manual and cam-actuated automatic means for moving said needle bar laterally'to thus control'the stitching width and stitching area, and cooperating manual and cam-actuated automatic means to control stitching length, said manual means for controlling' the Vstitching Ylength including a manually operable pivoted handle reciprocable through a predeterminedrange of movement in accordance with the desired stitching length, a manual adjusting plate mounted coaxially with said handle, said Y plate being manually positionable for selecting automatic and manual control of stitching length and having limit means to determine, in the manual setting.k position of said plate, the'range of movementl of said handle for.

Vmanually setting the stitching length desired, coupling elements positionable by said adjusting plate to couple said handle to said automaticV means for controlling the stitching length and to simultaneously uncouple the handle from said'adjusting plate, said linking means and cam-'actuated automatic means to control stitching length including a cam, means for driving said cam from said Vdrive means, a pivotally mounted cam follower, a momeans operably connected tothe feeding pusher to icon-` trol the rate of feedof the feeding pusher automatically,

Y tion.

manual setting means operably connected to'said feeding pusher to manually control the rate of feed of the feeding pusher, adjusting means for adjusting the limit of the stitching length, and coupling means actuatable by said setting means for coupling and uncoupling said setting means to and from said drive means.

8. The apparatus defined in claim 7, including three individual cams in said automatic devices for controlling the stitching length, the stitching width and stitching area, respectively, three individual pivoted cam follower devices for the stitching width and stitching area automatic conmaticcontrol cams, and a common releasing lever having manually adjustable cam surfaces which bear against and pivot all three cam follower devices away from the three automatic control cams.

9. rA sewing machine capable of straight-line and zigzag sewing and capable of adjustment to make buttonholes automatically, said machine having a material-feeding pusher, a lengthwise reciprocating needle` bar and manual and individual automatic cam operated means to move the needle bar laterally and to limit the amplitude of such movement as desired so as to control the stitching width and stitching area, and manual and automatic cam operated means to control the feed of the material being sewed to vcontrol stitching length, said manual means being provided with a handle, coupling elements operable by said manual adjusting means for coupling and uncoupling said handle to and from said automatic `means, each of Said three automaticV means being provided with`cams andrcam followers, linkage means connecting respective onesof said cam followers with said needle bar land with said material pusher, knob setting means assembling alltthree of'said cams into a rigid unit for automatic sewing of buttonholes, motor driven means including unidirectional clutch means to turn all three of'said cams together in one direction only, means for engaging and disengaging said clutch means, said three cams being selectively rotatable manually and automatically depending upon the disposition of said clutch engaging-means, said knob of the setting means having indicator symbols thereon for the sequential stages of Voperations followed in sewing a buttonhole, and

-a` stationary marker on the machine cooperating with said symbols to indicate Ithe placement ofthe setting means in position to initiate the desired stage of opera- 10., A sewing machine capable of straight-line andzigzag sewing and of adjustment yto make buttonholes automatically, said machine having a material-feeding pusher, a lengthwise reciprocating .needle bar and individual manual means and individual automatic cam operated meansto move lthe needle bar laterally and to limit the amplitude of such movement asY desired so as to control the stitching width andstitching area,v and manual and automatic cam operated means to control the feed of the material which is being sewed to control stitching length,` said manual means being provided with a handle, coupling elements operable by Vsaid manual adjusting means for coupling land uncoupling said handleto and from said automatic means, each of said three automatic means being provided with camsaud cam followers, linkage meansy connecting respective ones of said ca m followers with said needle bar and with said material pusher, setting means assembling all three of said cams into a rigid unit for automatic sewing of buttonholes, motor driven means including unidirectional clutch means toy turn all three of said cams together infone direction only, means for engaging and disengaging said clutch means, said three cams being selectively rotatable manually and automatically depending upon the dispositionrof said clutch engaging means, said setting means having position indicator symbols thereon for tive sequential stages of operations followed in Vsewingy a buttonhole, in each of the positions of said setting means said cams actuating said needle bar and said feeding pusher to perform respective movements in sewing la buttonhole, in the first position the setting means causing sewing of the first caterpillar, in the second causing sewing of the rst cross bar, in the third position causing sewing of the second caterpillar, in the fourth position causing sewing of the second cross bar, and in the fifth position causing sewing-over of the buttonhole.

11. A sewing machine capable of straight-line and zigzag sewing and of adjustment to make buttonholes automatically, said machine having a material-feeding pusher, a lengthwise reciprocating needle bar arid individual manual means and individual -automatic cam operated means to move the needle bar laterally and to limit the amplitude of such movement as desired so as to control the stitching width and stitching area, and manual and automatic cam operated means to control the feed of the material which is being sewed to control stitching length, said manual means being provided with a handle, coupling elements operable by said manual adjusting means for coupling and uncoupling said handle to and from said automatic means, each of said three automatic means being provided with camsand cam followers, linkage means connecting respective ones of said cam followers with said needle bar and with said material pusher, setting means assembling all three of said cams into a rigid unit for automatic sewing of buttonholes, motor driven means including unidirectional clutch means to turn all three of said cams together, means for engaging and disengaging said clutch means, said three cams being selectively rotatable manually and automatically depending upon the disposition of said clutch engaging means, in each of the positions of said setting means said cams actuating said needle bar and said feeding pusher to perform respective movements in sewing a buttonhole, in the iirst position the setting means causing sewing of the first caterpillar, in the second causing sewing of the first cross bar, in the third position causing sewing of the second caterpillar, in the fourth position causing sewing of the second cross bar, and in the fth position causing sewing-over of the buttonhole.

12. A sewing machine capable of straight-line and zigzag sewing and capable of adjustment to make buttonholes automatically, said machine having a materialfeeding pusher, a lengthwise reciprocating needle bar and manual and individual automatic cam operated means to move the needle bar laterally and to limit the amplitude of such movement as desired so as to control the stitching width and stitching area, and manual and automatic cam operated means vto control the feed of the material being sewed to control stitching length, said manual means being provided with a handle, coupling elements operable by said manual adjusting means for coupling and uncoupling said handle to and from said automatic means, each of said three automatic means being provided with cams and cam followers, linkage means connecting respective ones of said cam followers with said needle bar` and with said material pusher, knob setting means assembling all three of said cams into a rigid unit for automatic sewing of buttonholes, motor driven means including unidirectional clutch means to turn all three of said cams together, means for engaging and disengaging said clutch means, said three cams being selectively rotatable manually and automatically depending upon the disposition of said clutch engaging means, in each of the positions of said setting means said cams actuating said needle bar and said feeding pusher to perform respective movements in sewing a buttonhole.

13. The apparatus defined in claim l0, said cam followers including individual `pivoted cam follower means for the stitching width control cam, the stitching area control cam, and the stitching length control cam, and a common releasing lever operatively connected to pivot all three cam follower means away from the said three control cams, said releasing lever carrying cam surfaces manually adjustable lin position to bear against said cam follower means.

14. The 4invention defined in claim 1, the handle being pivoted, the manual adjusting means comprising a plate mounted on the pivot of the handle, the plate having two apertures, a rst one providing a surface which is partly concentric about the pivot and partly non-concentric, the latter part determining the said range of movement of the handle, a radially movable slider having a pin the radial position of which is determined by the said nonconcentric surface, and a groove in the handle in which the pin resides, the pin and groove delimiting the range of movement of the handle, but only when the pin is in the non-concentric part of said aperture.

l5. The invention defined in claim 14, wherein said coupling elements which are positioned to couple the handle to the automatic means include a spring pressed coupling lever having an arm that passes through and is actuated by an edge of the other of the two apertures when the plate is turned to place the pin in the concentric part of the iirst one of apertures.

16. A sewing machine capable of straight-line and zigzag sewing and capable of adjustment to make buttonholes automatically, said machine having a material-feeding pusher, a lengthwise reciprocating needle bar and manual and individual automatic cam operated means to move the needle bar laterally and to limit the amplitude of such movement as desired so as to control the stitching width and stitching area, and manual and automatic cam operated means to control the feed of the material being sewed to control stitching length, said manual means being provided with a handle, coupling elements operable by said manual adjusting means for coupling and uncoupling said handle to and from said automatic means,

. each of said three automatic means being provided with cams and cam followers, linkage means connecting respective ones of said cam followers with said needle bar and with said material pusher, knob setting means assembling all three of said cams into a rigid unit for automatic sewing of buttonholes, motor driven means including unidirectional clutch means to turn all three of said cams together, means for engaging and disengaging said clutch means, said three cams being selectively rotatable manually and automatically depending upon the disposition of said clutch engaging means, the cam operated means to control the feed of the material including a cam follower and a cam having cam surface indentations designed to arrest the cam follower in the respective sequential stages of operation.

References Cited in the le of this patent UNITED STATES PATENTS 

